Forum for Science, Industry and Business

Sponsored by:     3M 
Search our Site:

 

Identifying naturally-occurring active ingredients for use in skin-care products

08.04.2003


The desire for healthy-looking skin has existed throughout the centuries and has often led humanity to flowers and other plants in search of assistance. COSMACTIVE treads the same path, but uses the latest in biotechnology to identify and extract the active ingredients from a wide range of plants.



Under the umbrella of the EUREKA project COSMACTIVE, the French research company Greentech has developed a new way of identifying and selecting active ingredients that gives it, and its Spanish partner Laboratorios Dr. Vinyals, a competitive edge over their rivals.

The COSMACTIVE project looked at a variety of botanical species from countries in Africa and South America and aimed to discover the active ingredients in those plants with a view to using the plant extracts in cosmetics. The objective was to find different applications for the active compounds, using them as anti-oxidants or anti-inflammatories for example. Maria Moya from Laboratorios Dr. Vinyals, the Spanish partner in the project, explains, “we began with over 200 plants and narrowed it down to six different botanical species with some characteristic activities in genetic testing in vitro, from which we could expect good activity in vivo.”


Having identified a potentially useful molecule from one of the six starting plants, the task was to find a complementary molecule from another plant that could be combined with the first molecule to make the active ingredient in a skincare product. In this way, the active ingredient in a self-tanning cream for example, could be accurately described as an extract of the two plants.

COSMACTIVE developed two databases of information. The first, a plant database of over 17,000 species, formed the basis for identifying potential complementary ingredients. It included technical information such as botany and pharmacology, as well as the traditional, indigenous use of the plant extracts. This database was then combined with a structural chemistry database of around 12,500 molecules and with mathematical modelling software capable of simulating the behaviour of active compounds on the skin.

Three main active ingredients have been identified and the project team now has patent rights for the use of these active ingredients in the whitening creams and self-tanning products it has developed as well as an anti-inflammatory ingredient.

EUREKA proved doubly advantageous for Greentech, the project leader. “Firstly the funding, that’s very important because it allowed us to do research which we perhaps wouldn’t have been able to at that time,” explains Dr Jean-Yves Berthon, president of Greentech.

Being able to draw on the Spanish partner’s experience in biochemistry was the other advantage. “That, after all, is EUREKA’s goal, to be able to gain ‘savoir-faire’ via an industrial experiment,” says Berthon.

His company’s turnover has increased by more than 30 per cent. “The project went very well with our partner and with the EUREKA project office. It was all great!” he enthuses.

Nicola Vatthauer | alfa
Further information:
http://www.eureka.be/cosmactive

More articles from Life Sciences:

nachricht BigH1 -- The key histone for male fertility
14.12.2017 | Institute for Research in Biomedicine (IRB Barcelona)

nachricht Guardians of the Gate
14.12.2017 | Max-Planck-Institut für Biochemie

All articles from Life Sciences >>>

The most recent press releases about innovation >>>

Die letzten 5 Focus-News des innovations-reports im Überblick:

Im Focus: Long-lived storage of a photonic qubit for worldwide teleportation

MPQ scientists achieve long storage times for photonic quantum bits which break the lower bound for direct teleportation in a global quantum network.

Concerning the development of quantum memories for the realization of global quantum networks, scientists of the Quantum Dynamics Division led by Professor...

Im Focus: Electromagnetic water cloak eliminates drag and wake

Detailed calculations show water cloaks are feasible with today's technology

Researchers have developed a water cloaking concept based on electromagnetic forces that could eliminate an object's wake, greatly reducing its drag while...

Im Focus: Scientists channel graphene to understand filtration and ion transport into cells

Tiny pores at a cell's entryway act as miniature bouncers, letting in some electrically charged atoms--ions--but blocking others. Operating as exquisitely sensitive filters, these "ion channels" play a critical role in biological functions such as muscle contraction and the firing of brain cells.

To rapidly transport the right ions through the cell membrane, the tiny channels rely on a complex interplay between the ions and surrounding molecules,...

Im Focus: Towards data storage at the single molecule level

The miniaturization of the current technology of storage media is hindered by fundamental limits of quantum mechanics. A new approach consists in using so-called spin-crossover molecules as the smallest possible storage unit. Similar to normal hard drives, these special molecules can save information via their magnetic state. A research team from Kiel University has now managed to successfully place a new class of spin-crossover molecules onto a surface and to improve the molecule’s storage capacity. The storage density of conventional hard drives could therefore theoretically be increased by more than one hundred fold. The study has been published in the scientific journal Nano Letters.

Over the past few years, the building blocks of storage media have gotten ever smaller. But further miniaturization of the current technology is hindered by...

Im Focus: Successful Mechanical Testing of Nanowires

With innovative experiments, researchers at the Helmholtz-Zentrums Geesthacht and the Technical University Hamburg unravel why tiny metallic structures are extremely strong

Light-weight and simultaneously strong – porous metallic nanomaterials promise interesting applications as, for instance, for future aeroplanes with enhanced...

All Focus news of the innovation-report >>>

Anzeige

Anzeige

Event News

See, understand and experience the work of the future

11.12.2017 | Event News

Innovative strategies to tackle parasitic worms

08.12.2017 | Event News

AKL’18: The opportunities and challenges of digitalization in the laser industry

07.12.2017 | Event News

 
Latest News

Plasmonic biosensors enable development of new easy-to-use health tests

14.12.2017 | Health and Medicine

New type of smart windows use liquid to switch from clear to reflective

14.12.2017 | Physics and Astronomy

BigH1 -- The key histone for male fertility

14.12.2017 | Life Sciences

VideoLinks
B2B-VideoLinks
More VideoLinks >>>